MINAHASA HIGHLAND TOUR
History
The name Indonesia has been derived from two Greek words "Indos" and "Nesos", meaning Islands near India. It is the largest archipelago in the world with a total of 17,508 islands, of which about 6000 are inhabited. Many tribes with diverse culture and languages inhabit the islands. Five main islands and 30 smaller archipelagoes are home to the majority of the population. The main islands are Sumatra, Kalimantan, Java, Sulawesi and Irian Jaya.
Sulawesi was formerly known as Celebes. The name Sulawesi possibly comes from the words sula ("island") and besi ("iron") and may refer to the historical export of iron from the rich Lake Matano iron deposits. It came into common use in English following Indonesian independence.The name Celebes was originally given to the island by Portuguese explorers
The name of the land of Minahasa has been changed several times: Batacina-Malesung-Minaesa and then finally the current name Minahasa, meaning "becoming one united". This name arose as the Minahasans fought the war against the southern Kingdom of Bolaang Mangondow. However, other sources cite that the original name of Minahasa was Malesung, meaning "paddy rotary", then changed to Se Mahasa, meaning "they that unite," and finally Minahasa, meaning "becoming one united."
North Sulawesi never developed any large empire. In 670, the leaders of the different tribes, who all spoke different languages, met by a stone known as Watu Pinawetengan. There they founded a community of independent states, who would form one unit and stay together and would fight any outside enemies if they were attacked.
Until well into the 19th century Minahasa was made up of rivaling warrior societies that practiced headhunting. Only during 'Pax Neerlandica' of the formal colonization of the Dutch East Indies the state of permanent internal warfare and the practice of headhunting subside.
The Origin of Minahasa People
The Minahasans are an ethnic group located in the North Sulawesi province of Indonesia, formerly known as North Celebes. The Minahasa people would refer to themselves as Kawanua people, Touwenang people or more commonly as Manado people. They are actually a nation with oldest democracy and federal nation in the middle of the other Indonesian Tribes, even in Asia, because of their old tribal united government (declared in Watu Pinawetengan).
The Minahasa region of north Sulawesi was inhabited first by humans in the late third and second millennia BC. The Austronesian people originally inhabited southern China before moving and colonizing areas in Taiwan, the northern Philippines, the southern Philippines, and on to Borneo, Sulawesi, and the Moluccas.
According to Minahasa mythology the Minahasans are descendants of Toar and Lumimuut. Initially, the descendants of Toar-Lumimuut were divided into 3 groups: Makatelu-pitu (three times seven), Makarua-siouw (two times nine) and Pasiowan-Telu (nine times three). They multiplied quickly. But soon there were disputes among these people. Their leaders named Tona'as then decided to meet and talk about this. They met in Awuan (north of the current Tonderukan hill). This meeting was called Pinawetengan u-nuwu (dividing of language) or Pinawetengan um-posan (dividing of ritual). At that meeting the descendants were divided into three groups named Tonsea, Tombulu, and Tontemboan corresponding to the groups mentioned above. At the place where this meeting took place a memorial stone called Watu Pinabetengan (Stone of Dividing) was then built. It is a favorite tourist destination.
The groups Tonsea, Tombulu, and Tontemboan then established their main territories, which were Maiesu, Niaranan, and Tumaratas respectively. Soon several villages were established outside these territories.
Subsequently a new group of people arrived in Pulisan peninsula. Due to numerous conflicts in this area, they then moved inland and established villages surrounding a large lake. These people were therefore called Tondano, Toudano or Toulour (meaning water people). This lake is now the Tondano lake.
Colonization
At the time of the first contact with Europeans the sultanate of Ternate held some sway over North Sulawesi. The area was often visited by seafaring Bugis, traders from South Sulawesi. The Spanish and the Portuguese, the first Europeans to arrive, landed in Minahasa via the port of Makasar, but also landed at Sulu Island (off the north coast of Borneo) and at the port of Manado. The abundance of natural resources in Minahasa made Manado a strategic port for European traders sailing to and from the spice island of Maluku. Although they had sporadic contacts with Minahasa, the Spanish and Portuguese influence was limited by the power of the Ternate sultanate.
The Portuguese and Spaniards left reminders of their presence in the north in subtle ways. Portuguese surnames and various Portuguese words not found elsewhere in Indonesia, like garrida for an enticing woman and buraco for a bad man, could still be found in Minahasa. In the 1560s the Portuguese Franciscan missionaries made some converts in Minahasa.
The Spanish had already set themselves up in the Philippines and Minahasa was used to plant coffee that came from South America because of its rich soil. Manado was further developed by Spain to become the center of commerce for the Chinese traders who traded the coffee in China. With the help of native allies the Spanish took over the Portuguese fortress in Amurang in the 1550s, and Spanish settlers also established a fort at Manado, so that eventually Spain controlled all of the Minahasa. It was in Manado where one of the first Indo-Eurasian (Mestizo) communities in the archipelago developed during the 16th century. The first King of Manado (1630) named Muntu Untu was in fact the son of a Spanish Mestizo.
Spain renounced to her possessions in Minahasa by means of a treaty with the Portuguese in return for a payment of 350,000 ducats. Minahasan rulers sent Supit, Pa'at dan Lontoh (their statues are located in Kauditan, about 30 km to Bitung) where they made an alliance treaty with the Dutch. Together eventually gained the upper hand in 1655, built their own fortress in 1658 and expelled the last of the Portuguese a few years later.
By the early 17th century the Dutch had toppled the Ternate sultanate, and then set about eclipsing the Spanish and Portuguese. As was the usual case in the 1640s and 50s, the Dutch colluded with local powers to throw out their European competitors. In 1677 the Dutch occupied Pulau Sangir and, two years later, the Dutch governor of Maluku, Robert Padtbrugge, visited Manado. Out of this visit came a treaty with the local Minahasan chiefs, which led to domination by the Dutch for the next 300 years although indirect government only commenced in 1870.
The Dutch helped unite the linguistically diverse Minahasa confederacy, and in 1693 the Minahasa scored a decisive military victory against the Bolaang to the south. The Dutch influence flourished as the Minahasans embraced European culture and Christian religion. Missionary schools in Manado in 1881 were among the first attempts at mass education in Indonesia, giving their graduates a considerable edge in gaining civil service, military and other positions of influence.
Relations with the Dutch were often less than cordial (a war was fought around Tondano between 1807 and 1809) and the region did not actually come under direct Dutch rule until 1870. The Dutch and the Minahasans eventually became so close that the north was often referred to as the 12th province of the Netherlands. A Manado - based political movement called Twaalfde Provincie even campaigned for Minahasa's integration into the Dutch state in 1947.
Portuguese activity apart, Christianity became a force in the early 1820s when a Calvinist group, the Netherlands Missionary Society, turned from an almost exclusive interest in Maluku to the Minahasa area. The wholesale conversion of the Minahasans was almost complete by 1860. With the missionaries came mission schools, which meant that, as in Ambon and Roti, Western education in Minahasa started much earlier than in other parts of Indonesia. The Dutch government eventually took over some of these schools and also set up others. Because the schools taught in Dutch, the Minahasans had an early advantage in the competition for government jobs and places in the colonial army. Minahasans remain among the educated elite today.
Culture
Ancient Minahasa society was both competitive and egalitarian. Important Walian (religious shaman) were often female and Minahasa culture does not show any particular discrimination against women. Important decisions concerning the community were made in a democratic manner. Due to the virtual equality in birth a person’s rise in status was mainly dependent on personal achievements and the expression of personal virtues.
Leadership positions and higher status were acquired via two main mechanisms: the deployment of wealth and the show of bravery. The first was achieved via 'Status selematans', ceremonial feasts called Foso and the latter originally via successful headhunting.
Headhunting helped the warrior gain a religious concept called 'Keter', which is similar to the Malay term 'Semangat' and means Soul/spirit substance. This spiritual and physical force is expressed as courage, eloquence, virility and fertility. Even without the actual practice of headhunting and other old traditions and customs these core elements of original Minahasa culture are still held in high regard. To this day the deployment of wealth, bravery, obstinacy and the eloquence of verbal resistance are important to social mobility in the Minahasa.
Minhasan’s dead were buried in Waruga’s, a type of sarcophagus, until the practice was outlawed by the Dutch.
Sights
You can find random examples of these tombs all around the hills behind Manado, but the very best of them are found in the area of the village of Air Madidi.
In 1995 the area was proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A trip to its museum yields different objects that are also placed in Waruga. These tombs of aristocratic warriors and chiefs were elaborately carved with unusual motifs and designs and are a small window on Indonesian religion and culture in the era before Islam and Christianity changed everything. They are remnants of the megalithic age. Varying in age, the oldest reportedly dates back as far as 900AD.
An outbreak of cholera and tuberculosis in 1860 meant that the Dutch colonial government outlawed the practice, and many of the waruga from around the region were gathered up and relocated to Sawangan.
The Dutch worried that corpses could transmit diseases through the gap between the body of the Waruga and its cover.
There are now 144 of them gathered together here, and a small museum was added which displays some ceramics, and huge copper jewellery (bracelets and necklaces), which were used to adorn the otherwise naked bodies.
The Minahasans placed their dead in a squatting position in these carved stone structures. It portrays that a dead person will go back to God in the same position as he was in the womb.
All Waruga face north as Minahasans believe that their great ancestors come from the north.
A closer look at the carved stone on the top used to cover the bottom part where the dead are placed will give an idea of the occupation, hobby, nature of the deceased.
There are Waruga of a general, a magician, a dancer, etc,,, Also by looking at the notches on the side, you can tell the number of people placed into that particular Waruga.
One has a carving depicting a baby placed upside down, meaning that this was a baby, which died at childbirth.
Batik Production
It is magic cloth. Like many other textiles produced in Southeast Asia, batik patterns are more than a form of decoration. They are significant symbols that express various local identities for the people in the region.
The name of the fabric came to be identified with the people of Java although batik was also produced in other places like Southern Sumatra, Central Sulawesi, Malaysia and even Singapore.
The existence and use of batik was already recorded in the 12th Century and the textile has since become a strong source of identity for Indonesians.
This form of weaving requires the most skill for precise patterns to be woven and is considered the premiere form of ikat. The amount of labor and skill required also make it the most expensive,
Minahasa Tribes around the 7th century made clothing using materials like bark fiber, (called "Fuya" is taken from the tree and the tree Lahendong Sawukouw), as well as pineapples, bananas called "koffo" and as well as bamboo called "wa 'u'.
Bentenan is the name of the island on the east coast of South Minahasa. In the past, around the 15th century these waters are an area of transit for sailors from Mangindanau, southern Philippines, before they headed towards Ternate. According to legends, expertise weave cotton yarn was obtained from the seafarers who often persist for months.
Bentenan fabrics are woven with double ikat techniques. Threads that form the fabric width (weft) called Sa'lange and thread lengthwise (warp) called Wasa'lene. The Technique, such as double ikat weaving, is a technique with a high degree of difficulty. It is rarely used in any other areas. Motifs created with this technique are subtle, complex and very unique.
Bentenan Batiks are woven seamless. Because the manufacturing process is complicated and takes a long time, local officials or chiefs for traditional ceremonies only use these fabrics. At that time Minahasan’s residents were still largely animist religious.
After the Dutch came to Minahasa, there are many socio-cultural changes, including the disappearance of traditional rituals. Gradually the use of Batik fabrics became less frequent and eventually disappeared.
Bentenan Batiks had disappeared in a long time. Some even say the Minahasan’s itself forgot about the existence of these high-quality fabrics. Worldwide probably only about 5 pieces of original cloth are stored in the Voor Land en Volkenkunde Museum, Rotterdam in the Netherlands and another piece of the national museum in Jakarta. According to the legend, this Batik is a gift of an observer from the Netherlands. The fabric is a rare. It is estimated to come from the region around Tombulu and dates back to 1885.
1.Lenu shrub (Morinda bractenta) for yellow color. When mixed with water and whiting it will become red.
2.Lelenu (peristrophe tinctoris) to get red.
3.Sangket (homnolanthus paulifolius) skin produces black.
4.Tium, a type of vines that produce blue and green.
The Minahasan of the 18th century had developed a weaving technique that is unique in the world. The Weaving technique called lungsi (face wrap), is recognized by experts from the west.
Lake Linow
Linow Lake is a 34-hectare, water-filled volcanic crater. The lake itself seems to be divided; one side is filled with sulfur while the other side is devoid of it.
Several small vents line the wall of the crater, spewing hot gases and water. The bubbles in the lake indicate there are more vents below the water line. The changing mixture of chemicals in the gases cases the lake to change colors from time to time, from red to deep green to even blue.
The colors in this highly sulfurous lake also change depending on the light and viewing perspective. The sun's rays affect the gradation in color as they reflect and refract off the lake's surface.
There are numerous endemic faunas like Blibis birds and insects called “Sayok” or “Komo.” Those winged insects living in the water are consumed by the inhabitants around the lake.
The lake's natural beauty unfolds as a number of grouse fly low from one of its edges before dipping onto its surface.
Be careful for the bubbling mud holes at the edge of the lake, or you will end up with serious burns.
Tomohon Traditional Market
Tomohon, known locally as the “city of flowers” sits in a saddle
Tomohon belongs to a sub tribe called Tombulu.
Its land contour, cool weather and fertile soil encourage the local community to cultivate various kinds of flowers and vegetables.
If you are into exotic food, do come to the Tomohon traditional market before Christmas. Here you will have a unique experience trying various types of meats such as pork, bat (paniki), dog (RW), monkey (yaki), wild boar, snake, forest rats and many others.
At first glance, this appears to be no different than a typical traditional market. The parking lot is clogged with shared vans and walking vendors selling everything from ice cream and candy to plastic toys and fresh flowers. The front of the market has colorful displays of colorful fruit and pungent spices.
Please the meat market is not for the faint hearted, vegetarians and animal lovers.
Japanese Caves
The caves were mostly used to store supplies during the war and hold up during air raids. Too cripple the caves, allied forces under the command of General McArthur dropped drums of burning fuel from the air. No fewer than 3,000 Japanese soldiers were killed were buried in a cave.
They are an eerie reminder of a turbulent time in Indonesia's history.
North Sulawesi is a region of the landing of allied Forces to enter Indonesia from the Pacific. Therefore, this area became a fierce battle field. Japanese Caves are spread across multiple locations.
Kali Waterfall
This natural 60 m waterfall is an ideal place to enjoy nature and fresh water pools at the base of the falls.
The waterfall itself has a charming fairy tale quality to it with an arched bridge having been put in place and the rock walls around are covered with beard moss blowing in the breeze and spray from the powerful falls. Best to take a raincoat and something cover your camera. Wear sneakers or hiking boots, as it can be slippery.
Mount Lokon & Mahawu
Indonesia has 129 volcanoes including Mount Lokon.
Mount Mahawu
The gentler slopes of Mahawu offer a much less challenging hike but the view is no less impressive.
The volcano is capped with 180 m wide and 140 m deep crater with two pyroclastic cones in the northern flanks
Inside the crater is a steaming emerald-green lake ringed with yellow sulfur deposits. Walking the rim on a clear day gives you a bird’s eye view of the whole region right down to the city of Manado and Bunaken Island to the north and as far as Bitung and Mount Dua Saudara to the east.
Also the pitcher plant can be found here. The cup of a pitcher plant looks simple. But it is a deadly trap. Pitcher plants lure insects with sweet-smelling nectar. When the insects arrive to feast, they slide into the pitcher’s deadly pool.The liquid inside the pitcher is like the plant version of a stomach, brimming with digestive juices that can break down hundreds of insects at a time.
A small explosive eruption was recorded in 1789. In 1994, fumaroles, mud pots and small geysers activities were observed along the greenish shore of a crater lake.
Other sights of North Sulawesi
Mount Klabat is the highest vulcano in North Sulawesi (1995 m). A 170 × 250 m wide, shallow crater lake is found at the summit. There are no confirmed historical eruptions of the volcano. A report of an eruption taking place in 1683 is thought to been produced by the vulcano Mount Tongkoko volcano instead.
Try walking up at night during a full moon and staying overnight to watch the sunrise.
The starting point for the hike is the town of Airmadidi, which is at an elevation of only 260 m. You are encouraged to register (free-of-charge) in the guestbook at the police station on the main road. The police can also recommend a guide, although local guides indicated they were planning to set up a small trekking center office near the police station. The guides can also act as porters and you can rent tents and sleeping bags, and other equipment you require.
The trail is in good condition and it is a steep but steady climb. It is possible to complete the climb as a day hike, although the 1,750 m elevation gain makes this quite challenging. The following are the three popular options from Airmadidi, and require 4 to 5 hours for the ascent and 4 hours for the descent:
• Day hike for sunrise – starting at 1 or 2 am. Obviously you need a torch/flashlight and the mental energy to climb through the night;
• Day hike from sunrise – starting at 5 am, you climb as the sun rises and hopefully make it to the summit before the midday clouds gather on the summit; and
• Overnight – start with enough time to get to the summit to set up camp and see the sunset. It’s better to start early to avoid the heat in the first part of the climb.
The trail is easy to follow once you are in the forst, but negotiating the many tracks and paths between Airmadidi and the forest is very difficult without local help as there are no signs. It is also very hot due to the low elevation. Beyond Airmadidi, the trail leads up a gravelly road and then along the side of a few crop fields before ascending up into the forest at about 500m above sea level. One short section here is actually paved with cement bricks. There are 6 ‘pos’ (Posts) on the way up. Although there are several other places suitable for resting or even camping. The numbered Posts are 1 (557m), 2 (916m), 3 (1,050m), 4 (1,206m), 5 (1,520m) and 6 (1,910). Water is available near Pos 2. Take a right turn for approximately 100m and Pos 3 features a nice log bench to rest on. Watch out for leeches, as there are a few. Pos 6 is the final pos and is located at the lowest point of what was originally the crater. Raspberries grow here. If you take a left here you can walk down to the rather muddy crater lake.
The trail does not leave the forest until just before the top, but although this means there aren’t many extensive views during the climb, which also means you can stay out of the hot sun for most of the trek. As you reach the reed-covered top there are some staggering views down to the city of Manado and the island of Manado Tua, Lokon, Soputan and the guitar-shaped Lake Tondano, plus the eastern coastline.
The trail continues along the ridge through head-high reeds, grass and bushes. There are two places where you are able to peer down the steep cliffs of the crater. The highest point of the mountain is crowned with a large cement trig point. There is not much of a view here unless you climb onto it and stand up! However, the finest viewpoint is actually a couple of minutes’ walk beyond the summit, about 10 meters lower down the other side. From this point, you can admire views of the entire northern peninsula of North Sulawesi. You may even spot the island volcano of Karangetang off in the distance to the north – this is most likely in clear conditions at dawn. The sun rises over the steep cone of Gunung Duasaudara.
It is possible to continue in a northern direction and descend to Kampung Klabat to the north of the peak although this route is rarely used and the vast majority of hikers return the same way to Airmadidi.
Mount Supotan
This active volcano is situated in Tombatu, about 60 km from Manado. Soputan, 1825 meters in height, is still active, often steaming and spewing volcanic ash. Its eruptions are relatively short lived (usually around a few days) and only happen at most a few time per year, so it can be climbed most of the time.
Gunung Soputan is commonly approached from the East as its eastern surrounding are at the highest elevation and the active western slopes are prone to rock falls as well as lava and pyroclastic flows during or after eruptions. Trekkers will pass through plantations, as well as areas overrun with "Edelweiss" flowers, usually called "Bunga Abadi" or "Eternal Flower". Often people choose to camp overnight in the Casuarina Forest before making the final accent, which begins at 4:00 AM.
The trail to Gunung Soputan starts as a wide path out to the fields behind the church in Toure. After about an hour's walk, the path becomes narrower and enters light forest. Halfway up the hills, a sharp right turn has to be taken, off of the main path and onto the actual hiking trail. There are no signs or other indications, so this is the hardest to find part of the hike. Along the hiking trail the forest becomes denser and a small open area often used by hikers for fires is passed. A few hours into the hike, the path becomes a small stream; you have not lost the path, you just need to continue through and along the stream. Its water is not drinking water as it contains volcanic minerals (you may notice a weak sulfur odor). Eventually the path leaves the stream and climbs up a steeper part of the hills. You end up in an open pine forest that is usually used to pitch a tent for the night. A very early start (~4am) the next morning is important for a good chance of a cloud free summit. From the camping area, the trail continues across a small plateau of volcanic sand and tall grass before entering a forest and descending into the valley that still separates you from Soputan. After leaving the campground it is important to keep left. You will have your first view of the mountain from the sand plateau. After having descended to the foot of Soputan, the rest of the route is fairly obvious. The summit has grown significantly due to eruptions during the last decade or so, and progress on the steep loose ash and scree slopes is slow, but very well worth it. Return to Toure along the same trail on the same day.
Ban Hin Kiong Temple - Manado
The name Ban Hin Kiong consists of three words, Ban meaning “plenty”, Hin meaning “abundant favors” and Kiong meaning “palace”. Therefore, Ban Hin Kiong means a holy palace that exudes much happiness. At Ban Hin Kiong, a number of annual events are held every Chinese New Year and at Goan Siao or Cap Go Meh.
This red temple looks elegant and attractive in all its sides and ornaments. These ornaments portray symbols of materials and these symbols deliver us the holy message about the initial creation of sky, earth and humans. These symbols represent the picture of God with all his characteristics in one integrated, harmonized and full unity.
These ornaments are apparent from carved paintings on rear wall. Central wall shows a child who tries to pick a fruit and an old man stands beside him to remind him. This symbol means anyone who plants will enjoy his fruits. There are many other meaning symbols that remind us about the God’s power.
Vihara Buddhayana Temple - Tomohon
The Vihara Buddhayana complex and Buddhist temple in Desa Kakaskasen III/Tomohon is an interesting phenomena, taking into account that the main houses of worship are churches. The dominant red buildings of Vihara attract visitors from the main street. A friendly guard from the Vihara complex will accompany visitors through each building.
A row of what might be the world’s most imaginatively posed Buddha statues graces the entrance to the temple.
Climbing to the top of the eight-floor pagoda is worth your time. From there you have a wonderful view of Desa Kakaskasen and Mt. Lokon from a distance. It is a breath-taking panorama. Follow the pathways among the manicured garden and meet a humongous turtle monument and fountain.
There are four eight-sided buildings and one cave-modeled building in the complex and each has its own purpose.
Woloan
Karumenga
The thermal delights of the Toraget Hot Springs are near Langowan. You can swim in the natural open-air hot spring pools here.
Locals still cook snails and boil corn in the steaming vents. They use the boiling water of the hottest pool to singe the feathers from chickens before gathering with their friends to soak luxuriously in another when the day’s work is over.
Steam rises from among the trees to drift across the seemingly endless paddies, and boiling clay bubbles and splutters in deep potholes. Walk in almost any direction from here and you’ll find volcanic vents, crystal specked with yellow sulfur, where searing spray squirts dramatically from the earth’s fragile crust.
Lake Tondano is the largest lake in North Sulawesi, Indonesia.
The lake is approximately 36 km from the city of Manado and is
Fertile rice paddies lead towards the lake’s edge and numerous fish restaurants are dotted upon the lakeside where you can try baked ikan mas (koi fish) served with fresh water spinach. Don’t forget to try the fiery dabu dabu, a local accompaniment to the fish consisting of chopped chilies, tomatoes and spring onions.
Few know that this caldera lake is a SUPERVOLCANO, similar to Yellowstone, with a big difference: it is currently erupting. Tondano produced a gigantic VEI8 (“super volcano”) eruption about 2.5 to 2 million years ago and has remained active into the present. Today, Tondano has four active vents: the volcanoes Lokon-Empung, Mahawu, Sempu and Soputan. They act as pressure relief valves for the large volcanic system, thus preventing pressure and magma build-up that would be needed for any major eruption from the main vent inside the lake.
In recent years there have been reports of decreasing water levels at Lake Tondano; from 1934 when it was 40 meters, to 1993 to 23 meters, 18 meters in 1996 and 12 meters in 2010.
The caldera was formed perhaps as much as several million years
The active andesitic-to-basaltic stratovolcanoes Soputan, Sempu, Lokon-Empung and Mahawu have formed on the poorly defined southern and northern rims of the caldera.
The age of the latest eruptions within the caldera is not known, although thermal areas occur at Batu Kolok and Sarangson, and at the Tampusu cinder cone and Lahendong maar.
Tumimperas Waterfall
This is a still relatively little known waterfall at Pinaras Village, around 8 km from Tomohon, with beautiful surroundings and many big trees. The path to the waterfall can be wet and slippery, so be careful.
This site is surrounded by beautiful natural scenery.